Pasta Travels

Category: Destination Guides

  • Boston With a Big Dog: Our Pasta-Approved Weekend at the Kimpton Marlowe

    Boston With a Big Dog: Our Pasta-Approved Weekend at the Kimpton Marlowe

    Most “dog-friendly Boston” guides are written by people traveling with a dog that fits under an airplane seat. Pasta is 65 pounds. That number matters more than you’d think — it’s the line where a lot of Boston hotels quietly stop saying yes.

    We spent a July weekend in Boston and Cambridge. Here’s what a big dog can actually do here.

    in this guide

    Does Boston actually work for a big dog?

    Yes — better than we expected, with one structural catch.

    Boston is walkable in a way that suits a large dog. Distances that would be a cab ride in most American cities are a twenty-minute walk here, and a golden retriever would rather walk. We covered most of our weekend on foot and Pasta was happier for it.

    The catch is the T. Dogs that don’t fit in a carrier are barred from the subway on weekdays from 7–9 AM and 4–7 PM, and MBTA staff can turn any animal away at their discretion based on crowding or behavior. We didn’t test this ourselves — we drove in and used Uber Pet — so treat it as a researched fact, not a field-tested one. If your plan depends on the T with a big dog, plan around that peak-hour window.

    Which Boston hotels rule out a 65-pound dog?

    This is the part nobody writes about, so here it is plainly. A 65-pound dog sits right on the failure line for several well-reviewed Boston pet-friendly hotels.

    HotelWeight limitWould Pasta fit?
    Hyatt Place Boston Seaport District50 lbs (1 dog)No
    Element by Marriott Boston Seaport60 lbsNo — by 5 lbs
    Studio Allston Hotel70 lbsYes
    Hilton Garden Inn Boston Logan75 lbsYes
    The Colonnade Back Bay75 lbsYes
    Kimpton MarloweNo weight limitYes
    Element’s 60-lb cap confirmed on Marriott’s own site. Weight caps change — call the property before you book.

    If your dog is between 60 and 75 pounds, you are in the zone where “pet friendly” on a booking site does not mean yes. Call. Ask for the number.

    Where we stayed: the Kimpton Marlowe

    We stayed at the Kimpton Marlowe in Cambridge. No weight limit, no breed restriction, no pet fee, no designated pet floor, no paperwork.

    What actually stood out wasn’t the policy — it was that nobody treated Pasta as an exception. We saw several dogs during the stay. The registration desk keeps a chalkboard with the names of every dog staying that night, and Pasta’s name was up there in pink chalk next to Layla, Willow, Hulk, Doombot, and a dog named Saul Goodboy. There are free cookies and waste bags at the desk.

    Golden retriever standing beside a chalkboard at the Kimpton Marlowe front desk listing guest dogs’ names including Pasta
    The Kimpton Marlowe front desk chalkboard. Pasta made the list, right next to Saul Goodboy.

    That’s a small thing that tells you a large thing: a hotel that writes your dog’s name on a board is a hotel where the front desk isn’t dreading your arrival.

    Valet parking meant we could drop the car once and not think about it — which matters more with a big dog, because street-parking a car you need to load 65 pounds of retriever into is its own small ordeal.

    🐾 Pasta-Approved Verdict: 9/10

    No weight limit, no fee, genuinely warm staff, and a neighborhood built for walking. The honest caveat: it’s in Cambridge, not Boston. Everything on the Boston side of the river is a bridge crossing away, so if your itinerary is Freedom Trail–heavy you’ll be commuting. For us that was fine — the Cambridge side was the better place to have a dog anyway.

    How do you get around with a dog too big for a carrier?

    We drove in. One shot, no traffic drama, and then handed the car to valet and didn’t touch it again.

    Uber Pet did the rest. It’s available across the Boston metro for a small surcharge, with no restriction on the size or breed of the animal — which is the whole point for a dog Pasta’s size. Every driver we got was genuinely fine with him.

    The one thing worth knowing: you can’t pick your vehicle class. We got a sedan once, and a back seat holding two adults and a 65-pound retriever is a cozy arrangement. Pasta did not care in the slightest. If you’d rather not gamble, request off-peak when larger vehicles are likelier — or just walk it.

    65-pound golden retriever riding in the back seat of an Uber Pet in downtown Boston
    Uber Pet has no size restriction — the whole point for a dog Pasta’s size.

    We walked most of the time, and that was the right call. Cambridge and the waterfront are both flat and dog-scaled.

    Can you take a big dog on a Boston harbor cruise?

    Yes — and it was the best thing we did all weekend.

    We walked down to the wharf and got on the Historic Sightseeing Cruise run by Boston Harbor City Cruises, which leaves from 1 Long Wharf, right by Faneuil Hall. It’s a narrated 90-minute loop of the harbor and the islands, and leashed dogs are welcome.

    Pasta spent the first half on the top deck getting sun, breeze, and an unreasonable amount of attention from strangers, then went downstairs and passed out flat in the shade on the second deck once the smells wore him out. The two decks are the reason this works for a big dog — he needed somewhere to lie down out of the sun after the novelty burned off, and there was room to do it without being underfoot.

    Three things to know before you book:

    • Dogs must be leashed the whole time.
    • Dogs are not allowed on Codzilla or on the Boston Harbor Islands, even though the same company runs them.
    • Boarding opens 30 minutes before departure and they do not wait for you. With a big dog, take the full 30 — you want to be on early enough to pick your spot on the top deck.

    One trap worth flagging: the Charles Riverboat Company departs from CambridgeSide, right next to the Marlowe, and looks like the obvious choice if you’re staying in East Cambridge. It does not allow pets — service animals only. Don’t walk over there assuming. Go to Long Wharf.

    If you want an all-dogs-aboard version instead, Mass Bay Lines runs “Dog Days of Summer” cruises on alternating weekends May through September, one dog per paying adult.

    Where does a big dog go when it’s too hot to walk?

    Into the mall. Genuinely.

    The Marlowe sits next to CambridgeSide, and during the worst of the afternoon heat we walked Pasta through it in air conditioning. You can order food and either find a cool seat in the food hall or take it out to the outdoor seating.

    A big dog overheats faster than a small one and can’t be carried through the bad stretch, so having an indoor, air-conditioned, walkable loop within a block of the hotel is a real logistical advantage on a July trip. Worth noting: CambridgeSide doesn’t publish a leashed-dog policy we could find, and individual stores set their own rules. We had no issue — but confirm at the entrance rather than assuming.

    Are there fenced parks nearby?

    East Cambridge is unusually well supplied. Walking the residential streets around the hotel we kept running into fenced green space — this neighborhood was clearly designed with dogs in the plan, not as an afterthought.

    The two nearest official off-leash areas:

    • Toomey Park — sizable fenced dog area with two separate entrances
    • Binney Street Park — dedicated off-leash space near Binney St, Fulkerson St, and Galileo Galilei Way
    Two large dogs greeting each other in a fenced off-leash dog park in East Cambridge
    One of the fenced dog parks in East Cambridge — room enough for a big dog to actually run.

    For a 65-pound dog, the relevant question isn’t whether a dog park exists — it’s whether it has room to actually run. Both of these do.

    Is PorchFest good with a dog?

    Very. We caught Cambridge PorchFest — bands playing on people’s porches and patios across the neighborhood, free, walkable, entirely outdoors.

    It’s an ideal big-dog event for a specific reason: nothing is ticketed, nothing is indoors, and nothing is a bottleneck. If a crowd gets thick or a band gets loud, you walk two blocks to the next porch. You are never stuck. Pasta had a great time, and so did everyone who met him.

    If you’re planning around it: Cambridge PorchFest runs in July. Somerville’s is a separate event in May.

    What we’d do differently

    Honestly, not much. No accidents, no refusals, no scrambling. The trip worked.

    The one thing we’d change is booking the harbor cruise earlier in the day. Pasta was thrilled for the first thirty minutes and asleep for the rest — a big dog burns through a new environment fast, and we’d rather have spent his good hours on the water and his tired hours in the hotel room.

    And if we did it again with a dog even slightly heavier, we’d still book the Marlowe. The absence of a weight limit isn’t a perk. For a big dog, it’s the whole decision.

    Golden retriever asleep on a hotel bed with the Boston skyline lit up behind him
    Post-harbor-cruise. A big dog burns through a new city fast.

    Traveling with a big dog? Our dog-friendly travel packing list is built for dogs that don’t fit in a carrier.

    — Zoey & Pasta

  • The Ultimate Dog-Friendly Travel Packing List (2026)

    The Ultimate Dog-Friendly Travel Packing List (2026)

    Last updated: July 2026. Written by Zoey, who has packed for a 65-lb golden retriever across road trips, ferries, and hotel stays in 15+ states.

    What should you pack when traveling with a dog?

    Pack five categories: food and water, health and ID documents, safety and restraint gear, sleep and comfort items, and cleanup supplies. For any trip longer than a weekend, bring 2–3 extra days of food, a copy of your dog’s vaccination records, and one item that smells like home. Everything else is trip-specific.

    That’s the short answer. Below is the full checklist, plus what changes when you’re driving, taking a ferry, flying, or staying in a hotel — and the extra items that only matter if your dog is big.

    in this guide

    The 12 non-negotiables

    These go in every bag, every trip, regardless of destination or duration.

    #ItemWhy it matters
    1Food, pre-portionedPortioning by meal into bags prevents overfeeding and makes handoffs easy if someone else feeds your dog
    2Collapsible bowls (2)One for food, one for water. Flat-packing bowls take almost no space
    3Water bottle with attached bowlRest stops and trailheads are unreliable. Assume no water is available
    4Leash + a spareThe spare is not optional. Leashes break, get soaked, and get left behind
    5Collar with current ID tagInclude your cell number, not your landline. Add “MICROCHIPPED” if applicable
    6Vaccination recordsDigital copy on your phone AND a paper copy. Kennels, groomers, and some hotels ask
    7Waste bags (double what you think)You will always use more than you planned
    8Bed or blanket from homeThe single most effective anxiety tool. Familiar smell in an unfamiliar room
    9TowelFor paws, rain, lakes, mud, car seats, and hotel furniture
    10Basic first-aid suppliesGauze, vet wrap, tweezers, antiseptic wipes, and any prescription medication
    11Current photo of your dogIf your dog goes missing in an unfamiliar place, you need a photo ready to show, not to search for
    12One favorite toyNot the whole toy box. One item with a strong home association

    Food and water

    Bring the entire trip’s food plus two to three extra days. Switching food mid-trip is the fastest route to an upset stomach in a hotel room, and your brand may not be sold at your destination.

    • Pre-portioned meals in individual bags or a sectioned container
    • Collapsible silicone bowls — two, so food and water are separate
    • Insulated water bottle with a fold-out bowl for hikes and rest stops
    • Water from home for the first day or two if your dog has a sensitive stomach — mineral content varies by region
    • High-value training treats for recall in unfamiliar places and for rewarding calm behavior in hotels
    • A long-lasting chew — the difference between a quiet dinner on a patio and a restless one
    • A slow-feeder or lick mat if your dog eats anxiously in new environments

    Health, ID, and documents

    More than 35 states require some form of Certificate of Veterinary Inspection (CVI) for dogs entering from another state, and requirements vary by state, the dog’s age, and the purpose of travel (AVMA). USDA APHIS does not regulate owner-driven interstate pet travel — the destination state sets the rules (APHIS).

    • Vaccination records — rabies certificate at minimum, digital and paper
    • Certificate of Veterinary Inspection if your destination state requires one. These are typically valid for 10 days from issue and must come from a USDA-accredited veterinarian
    • Microchip number written down somewhere that isn’t only your phone — and confirm the registry has your current phone number before you leave
    • Prescription medications in original labeled containers, plus a few days’ buffer
    • Flea, tick, and heartworm prevention on schedule — tick exposure changes significantly by region
    • Your regular vet’s phone number and the address of a 24-hour emergency vet near your destination, looked up before you need it
    • Pet insurance details if you carry it

    Do this before you book: search the destination state’s agriculture department for its pet entry requirements. It takes five minutes and it is the one item on this list that can end a trip before it starts.

    Safety and restraint

    • Crash-tested harness or secured crate for the car — an unrestrained dog is a projectile in a collision and a hazard to the driver
    • Standard 6-ft leash plus a spare
    • Long line (15–30 ft) for beaches and open trails where off-leash isn’t permitted but you still want your dog to move
    • Reflective or light-up collar accessory for early-morning and post-sunset walks
    • Muzzle if your dog needs one, or if you’re visiting anywhere that requires it — introduce it at home first, never for the first time on a trip
    • Paw protection — boots or paw wax for hot asphalt, ice, or salted roads

    Sleep and comfort

    The bed from home does more work than anything else you pack. A familiar smell in an unfamiliar room shortens the settling-in period from hours to minutes.

    • Bed or blanket that already smells like home — do not wash it before the trip
    • Crate or travel pen if your dog is crate-trained. Many hotels require dogs to be crated when left alone in the room
    • One familiar toy
    • A long-lasting chew for settling
    • A calming aid if your dog uses one — talk to your vet before the trip, not during it
    • A worn t-shirt of yours — free, weighs nothing, and works

    Cleanup and grooming

    • Waste bags — double your estimate
    • Towels — at least two. One for paws, one for full-body
    • Paw rinse bottle — a squeeze bottle of water does the job. Essential after any beach day
    • Brush — especially for double-coated dogs. Brushing outside daily means less fur in the room
    • Enzymatic cleaner and paper towels for accidents. Bring your own; you will not want to go find some
    • Lint roller for your clothes and the rental car
    • Wipes for quick cleanups between real baths

    What to add for a road trip

    Road trips are the most forgiving way to travel with a dog — you control the schedule, the stops, and how much you bring. The gear that matters is about restraint and recovery time.

    • Crash-tested harness or secured crate
    • Seat cover or cargo liner
    • Window shade — dogs in direct sun overheat faster than you expect
    • A jug of water in the trunk, separate from your drinking water
    • Poop bags in the door pocket, not buried in a bag
    • A pre-drive exercise plan. A worn-out dog is a calm passenger. We do 30 minutes of real running before a long drive — it’s the difference between a dog who sleeps and a dog who paces

    Stop rhythm: one longer stop beats two short ones. Pasta settles better with a single 20-minute break to walk, drink, and reset than with two rushed 10-minute stops.

    What to add for a ferry

    Ferries are one of the most dog-friendly ways to travel, and almost nobody writes about them. Most routes welcome dogs on the open deck. Policies vary by operator, so confirm before you book.

    • Short leash — a long line on a crowded deck is a hazard
    • Water and a collapsible bowl — deck areas are windy and salty
    • A mat or towel to give your dog a defined spot to settle on
    • A jacket for you — the open deck is the dog-friendly area, and it is colder than the cabin
    • Motion-sickness plan if your dog is prone to it — ask your vet in advance

    The trick is the same as the car: exercise first. A dog who has already run for half an hour will lie down on a deck for 75 minutes without complaint.

    What to add for flying — and the hard truth for big dogs

    Large dogs cannot fly in the cabin on major U.S. airlines. In-cabin pets must fit in a carrier under the seat, which in practice caps the combined dog-plus-carrier weight at roughly 20 lbs (Chewy airline policy guide). Anything bigger goes in cargo.

    OptionSize limitWhat to know
    In-cabin, major airlines~20 lbs incl. carrierMust fit under the seat. Not an option for most medium or large dogs
    Cargo / checkedUp to ~150 lbs with kennelAlaska Airlines is consistently cited as among the most flexible major U.S. carriers for pet cargo. Temperature embargoes apply in summer and winter
    Semi-private (e.g. JSX)Up to ~79 lbsDog flies in the cabin, leashed on the floor. You buy a second adjacent seat. Costs more; removes the cargo risk entirely

    For a 65-lb dog like Pasta, that middle row is the real decision — and it’s why we drive and take ferries whenever the trip allows it. If you do fly cargo, pack a labeled kennel with your contact information, a frozen water dish that melts gradually, and absorbent bedding. Confirm the airline’s current temperature restrictions before booking; they change seasonally and can cancel a booked pet on the day.

    What to add for hotels and vacation rentals

    Ask two questions when you book: is there a weight limit, and can the dog be left alone in the room? Those two answers determine most of what you need to pack.

    • Crate — many properties require dogs to be crated if left unattended
    • Bed or blanket from home
    • Enzymatic cleaner — deal with an accident immediately and it never becomes a charge
    • Paw rinse bottle and towel for the door — the fastest way to stay welcome
    • Lint roller
    • A “do not disturb” plan — housekeeping entering a room with a loose dog is how incidents happen
    • A room with a kitchen if you can get one. Making your dog’s food in the room removes the 7 AM patio negotiation entirely

    What changes when your dog is big

    Most packing lists are written for dogs under 25 lbs. Here is what actually differs above roughly 50 lbs:

    ItemWhy big dogs are different
    Water capacityA 65-lb dog drinks far more than a 15-lb dog. Bring a jug, not a bottle
    Bed sizeTravel beds are often sized for small dogs. Measure before you buy, or bring the blanket instead
    Hotel weight limitsMany “pet-friendly” properties cap at 25 or 50 lbs. Always confirm in writing
    FlyingEffectively cargo-only on major carriers. Plan around it
    Car restraintHarnesses rated for small dogs will not hold a large dog in a collision. Check the weight rating
    Heat managementLarge, thick-coated dogs overheat faster. Morning activity only in warm weather; watch asphalt temperature
    Stair and elevator accessAsk about it. A steep staircase is fine for a healthy adult dog and a real problem for a senior one

    A packing timeline that actually works

    WhenWhat to do
    2 weeks beforeCheck destination state entry requirements. Book the vet visit if a certificate is needed. Confirm hotel weight limit and unattended-dog policy in writing
    1 week beforeConfirm microchip registry has your current phone number. Refill medications. Look up the nearest 24-hour emergency vet to your destination and save it
    2 days beforePre-portion food. Charge anything that charges. Do NOT wash the travel blanket
    Day ofLong walk or run before you leave. Water and waste bags within arm’s reach, not in the trunk. Photo of your dog on your phone, ready to show

    Frequently asked questions

    What should I pack when traveling with a dog?

    Pack five categories: food and water, health and ID documents, safety and restraint gear, sleep and comfort items, and cleanup supplies. Bring 2–3 extra days of food beyond your trip length, a paper and digital copy of vaccination records, and one bed or blanket that already smells like home.

    Do I need a health certificate to travel with my dog between states?

    Often, yes. More than 35 U.S. states require some form of Certificate of Veterinary Inspection for dogs entering from another state. Requirements are set by the destination state, not federally. Certificates typically must come from a USDA-accredited veterinarian and are valid for about 10 days.

    Can a large dog fly in the airplane cabin?

    Not on major U.S. airlines. In-cabin pets must fit in a carrier under the seat, capping combined weight at roughly 20 lbs. Larger dogs must fly cargo, where limits reach about 150 lbs including the kennel. Semi-private carriers like JSX allow dogs up to about 79 lbs in cabin with a purchased adjacent seat.

    How much dog food should I bring on a trip?

    Bring the full amount for your trip plus two to three extra days. Pre-portion it by meal. Switching food mid-trip is a common cause of stomach upset, and your specific brand may not be available at your destination.

    What do I need to pack for a dog staying in a hotel?

    A crate if the property requires dogs to be crated when left alone, a bed or blanket from home, enzymatic cleaner and paper towels, a paw rinse bottle and towel for the door, and a lint roller. Confirm the weight limit and unattended-dog policy when you book.

    Are dogs allowed on ferries?

    On many routes, yes — usually on the open deck rather than in the indoor cabin. Policies vary by operator, so confirm before booking. Bring a short leash, water, and a mat so your dog has a defined place to settle. Dress warmly yourself; the dog-friendly deck is the cold one.

    How do I keep my dog calm while traveling?

    Exercise before you travel, not after. A solid 30 minutes of running before a long drive or crossing does more than any gear. Bring a bed or blanket that smells like home, keep feeding times consistent, and pack one familiar toy rather than several new ones.

    What should I pack for a dog on a long car ride?

    A crash-tested harness or secured crate, a seat cover, a water jug separate from your own, collapsible bowls, waste bags within reach, and a window shade. Plan one longer stop rather than several short ones — most dogs reset better with a single 20-minute break.

    Get the printable checklist

    The full list above, condensed to two printable pages with checkboxes — organised by category, plus the mode-specific add-ons for car, ferry, flight, and hotel, and the packing timeline. No email required. Print it, or keep it on your phone.

    download the checklist (PDF)

    Sources

    Everything else on this list comes from our own trips with Pasta, a 65-lb golden retriever, across 15+ states by car and ferry.

  • Martha’s Vineyard With a Big Dog: Our Pasta-Approved Week at Faraway

    Martha’s Vineyard With a Big Dog: Our Pasta-Approved Week at Faraway

    in this guide

    Why we went

    We went to Martha’s Vineyard because everyone goes to Martha’s Vineyard in July. We wanted to see it before it became the version of itself that ends up in everyone’s Instagram.

    Spring on the island is quiet. Some restaurants that take reservations can take walk-ins. The trails are empty. The light, especially in the early morning and at sunset, does something specific that the summer light doesn’t do — softer, slower, more honest.

    It’s also when Martha’s Vineyard quietly becomes one of the most dog-friendly places we’ve taken Pasta in the Northeast.

    This is a guide for big-dog parents (Pasta is a 4-year-old male golden retriever, ~65 lbs) who are thinking about a trip to MV before the crowds. It’s also a love letter to Faraway, the hotel we stayed at, which got nearly everything right.

    How we got there: NY → Cape Cod → Ferry

    Martha’s Vineyard is a ferry-first island. Here’s the route that worked best for us with a big dog:

    • Drive from New York to Falmouth, MA — about 5 hours straight, but plan on closer to 6 with a rest stop and a real lunch break. Pasta does better with one longer stop than two short ones.
    • Falmouth-Edgartown Ferry. This is the move. It’s a 72-foot fast ferry that runs from Falmouth on Cape Cod directly into Edgartown Harbor — about 75 minutes across Vineyard Sound. Dogs are welcome on the open deck.
    • Once you roll off the ferry, it’s a 10-minute drive to downtown.

    Total door-to-door from NYC: about 7 hours including breaks. Honest take — it’s a real travel day, but the moment you roll off the ferry into Edgartown, the time spent feels right.

    Pro tip: A worn-out dog from a big morning walk is a calm dog on the ferry. We did 30 minutes of running before we got in the car. Pasta slept most of the drive and was completely chill on the crossing.

    On the Falmouth–Edgartown ferry.

    Where we stayed: Faraway Martha’s Vineyard

    🐾 Pasta-Approved Verdict: 9/10

    If you’re traveling with a big dog and you only take one recommendation from this entire guide, take this one: stay at Faraway.

    We stayed on the second floor in a room with a small kitchen, which mattered more than I expected. Being able to make Pasta’s food in the room — and our own simple breakfasts — saved us from negotiating restaurant patios at 7 AM and gave the trip a slower, more grounded rhythm.

    The room itself was cozy in the way that boutique hotels try to be and often fail at: warm wood, thoughtful lighting, no overdesigned hotel-art-by-the-yard. Pasta found the couch on day one and that became his spot for the week.

    What Faraway got right for big-dog parents

    • ✅ No weight policy hassle. None. Walked in, signed in, no extra paperwork, no “well, technically…”
    • ✅ Staff loves dogs. Not “tolerates” — loves. Pasta got greetings every time we walked through the lobby.
    • ✅ Water bowls outside the property. Filled. Always.
    • ✅ Daily housekeeping. Worth its weight when you’re traveling with a dog who tracks in beach sand.
    • ✅ Dogs welcome property-wide except the pool. Which is the only reasonable exception. The pool deck has a clear pet-free zone, and the rest of the property is fully accessible.

    The one thing to flag

    The stairs to the second floor are a little steep. We didn’t have any issues with Pasta — golden retrievers in their prime can handle them fine — but if your dog has hip dysplasia, arthritis, or is a senior, ask for a first-floor room or look for an elevator option. I’d rather you know now than book and regret.

    That’s the entire critical note. Everything else about the stay was thoughtful.

    For current room rates, check Faraway’s website directly — pricing varies a lot by season and room type.

    Edgartown is the kind of town that makes you walk slower. So we did.

    The highlight: beach access + Edgartown Harbor Lighthouse

    The reason Faraway is 9/10 is the location. Five minutes on foot from the hotel and you’re on the beach. Ten minutes and you’re at the Edgartown Harbor Lighthouse.

    We did this twice a day, every day:

    • Sunrise walks before breakfast. Pasta off-leash on a quiet stretch of sand, the lighthouse catching the first light.
    • Sunset walks before dinner. The light goes molten gold for about 12 minutes around the lighthouse. I have approximately 200 photos and videos of Pasta during those 12 minutes and I cannot edit them down.

    If you’re booking this trip, this is the routine. Build the rest of the day around the beach walks and you won’t regret a single thing.

    The 12 minutes of golden light. This is the trip in one photo.

    What we did with Pasta on the island

    Martha’s Vineyard is one of the most dog-friendly destinations we’ve taken Pasta to in the Northeast. We almost couldn’t go a day without bumping into another dog. Pasta got more socialization in this week than he gets in a month at home.

    Specific things to do (all dog-friendly):

    Chappaquiddick Island

    There’s a tiny ferry — called the Chappy Ferry — that crosses from Edgartown to Chappaquiddick. It’s a 90-second ride. Dogs are welcome. The whole thing feels like a secret. Once you’re on Chappy, the trails are quiet, the beaches are emptier, and Pasta could run and swim.

    Chappaquiddick — quieter trails, emptier beaches.

    Chilmark for lobster rolls and oysters

    The drive from Edgartown to Chilmark is one of the prettier drives we’ve done in the Northeast — back roads, stone walls, fields. Chilmark is up-island and slower-paced. We bought lunch from Menemsha Fish Market — lobster rolls, fresh oysters, clams, chowder — and ate at the picnic tables outside with Pasta at our feet.

    If you only do one off-Edgartown meal: this is it.

    Menemsha Fish Market lunch. The clam, the lobster, the chowder, the dog-friendly picnic tables. The whole island in one meal.
    Pasta after the lobster roll. Patient. Hopeful. Ready for round two.

    Biking the trails

    Martha’s Vineyard has a real bike trail network — paved, mostly flat, and shaded in stretches. We brought our own bikes packed in the car (worth doing if you have the space — saves rental hassle and you know your fit).

    A note for big-dog parents: Pasta runs alongside on a hand-held leash, and we kept the rides short (under 5 miles) and slow. Watch the temperature — golden retrievers overheat fast, and even mild sun on asphalt is too much for paws after a long stretch. Morning rides only, never midday.

    If your dog can’t run that distance, look for the small attachable bike trailers that work for medium-sized dogs.

    General wandering

    Edgartown itself is dog-friendly to a degree we don’t see often. Patios. Sidewalks. Shops with water bowls outside. We didn’t have a single “is your dog allowed in here?” moment all week.

    Where to eat with a big dog on Martha’s Vineyard

    This section is shorter than I’d like because we made a lot of meals at Faraway with the kitchen — and that was the right call. Self-catering for breakfast and one other meal saves you from the patio lottery.

    For the meals we ate out:

    The Newes from America (Edgartown)

    Right next door to Faraway. A local-favorite tavern with outdoor seating that welcomed Pasta without question. Classic comfort menu — the giant soft pretzel is exactly what you want after a long beach walk. The wait can be long, especially around dinner — reservations are highly recommended. This was our easy walk-home dinner spot more than once.

    What I’d flag for any big-dog parent considering MV

    1. Spring is the move. Feb–April is the sweet spot. Crowds are minimal, the weather is comfortable for a thick-coated dog, and the ferry can be booked weeks in advance.
    2. Take the Falmouth-Edgartown ferry. The Falmouth–Edgartown crossing drops you 10 minutes from downtown.
    3. Bring more water than you think. Your dog will be on the beach a lot, and salt + sand = a lot of drinking.
    4. Paws after the beach. Rinse Pasta’s paws before going back into the room — the sand stays in the fur for hours.
    5. Get a hotel room with a door directly outside if you can. Faraway’s stairs were fine for Pasta, but for late-night bathroom breaks, ground-floor access is a quality-of-life upgrade. (See the steep-stairs note above.)
    6. Reserve The Newes. Don’t show up at 7 PM hoping for a table. You’ll be waiting an hour with a hungry dog.

    Would we go back?

    Yes. Without thinking about it.

    Faraway gets a Pasta-Approved seal — full recommendation for big-dog parents — with the small caveat about the stairs for senior dogs or dogs with hip issues.

    Martha’s Vineyard in spring is the kind of trip that doesn’t make sense until you do it once. The light at sunrise. The empty beaches. Pasta off-leash, running ahead and looking back to make sure we’re still there. The lighthouse. The quiet.

    If you have a big dog and you’ve been thinking about MV but assumed it was a summer-only thing, take it from us: spring is when the island is yours.

    Want a custom trip plan for your own dog-friendly getaway?

    I’m Zoey. Pasta is my 4-year-old male golden retriever, ~65 lbs. I do custom trip planning for owners of big dogs who want to travel without the research nightmare — verified hotels, dog-friendly restaurants, vet contacts, the works.

    got questions? contact us

    — Zoey & Pasta