in this guide
Why we went
We went to Martha’s Vineyard because everyone goes to Martha’s Vineyard in July. We wanted to see it before it became the version of itself that ends up in everyone’s Instagram.
Spring on the island is quiet. Some restaurants that take reservations can take walk-ins. The trails are empty. The light, especially in the early morning and at sunset, does something specific that the summer light doesn’t do — softer, slower, more honest.
It’s also when Martha’s Vineyard quietly becomes one of the most dog-friendly places we’ve taken Pasta in the Northeast.
This is a guide for big-dog parents (Pasta is a 4-year-old male golden retriever, ~65 lbs) who are thinking about a trip to MV before the crowds. It’s also a love letter to Faraway, the hotel we stayed at, which got nearly everything right.
How we got there: NY → Cape Cod → Ferry
Martha’s Vineyard is a ferry-first island. Here’s the route that worked best for us with a big dog:
- Drive from New York to Falmouth, MA — about 5 hours straight, but plan on closer to 6 with a rest stop and a real lunch break. Pasta does better with one longer stop than two short ones.
- Falmouth-Edgartown Ferry. This is the move. It’s a 72-foot fast ferry that runs from Falmouth on Cape Cod directly into Edgartown Harbor — about 75 minutes across Vineyard Sound. Dogs are welcome on the open deck.
- Once you roll off the ferry, it’s a 10-minute drive to downtown.
Total door-to-door from NYC: about 7 hours including breaks. Honest take — it’s a real travel day, but the moment you roll off the ferry into Edgartown, the time spent feels right.
Pro tip: A worn-out dog from a big morning walk is a calm dog on the ferry. We did 30 minutes of running before we got in the car. Pasta slept most of the drive and was completely chill on the crossing.
Where we stayed: Faraway Martha’s Vineyard
🐾 Pasta-Approved Verdict: 9/10
If you’re traveling with a big dog and you only take one recommendation from this entire guide, take this one: stay at Faraway.
We stayed on the second floor in a room with a small kitchen, which mattered more than I expected. Being able to make Pasta’s food in the room — and our own simple breakfasts — saved us from negotiating restaurant patios at 7 AM and gave the trip a slower, more grounded rhythm.
The room itself was cozy in the way that boutique hotels try to be and often fail at: warm wood, thoughtful lighting, no overdesigned hotel-art-by-the-yard. Pasta found the couch on day one and that became his spot for the week.
What Faraway got right for big-dog parents
- ✅ No weight policy hassle. None. Walked in, signed in, no extra paperwork, no “well, technically…”
- ✅ Staff loves dogs. Not “tolerates” — loves. Pasta got greetings every time we walked through the lobby.
- ✅ Water bowls outside the property. Filled. Always.
- ✅ Daily housekeeping. Worth its weight when you’re traveling with a dog who tracks in beach sand.
- ✅ Dogs welcome property-wide except the pool. Which is the only reasonable exception. The pool deck has a clear pet-free zone, and the rest of the property is fully accessible.
The one thing to flag
The stairs to the second floor are a little steep. We didn’t have any issues with Pasta — golden retrievers in their prime can handle them fine — but if your dog has hip dysplasia, arthritis, or is a senior, ask for a first-floor room or look for an elevator option. I’d rather you know now than book and regret.
That’s the entire critical note. Everything else about the stay was thoughtful.
For current room rates, check Faraway’s website directly — pricing varies a lot by season and room type.
Edgartown is the kind of town that makes you walk slower. So we did.
The highlight: beach access + Edgartown Harbor Lighthouse
The reason Faraway is 9/10 is the location. Five minutes on foot from the hotel and you’re on the beach. Ten minutes and you’re at the Edgartown Harbor Lighthouse.
We did this twice a day, every day:
- Sunrise walks before breakfast. Pasta off-leash on a quiet stretch of sand, the lighthouse catching the first light.
- Sunset walks before dinner. The light goes molten gold for about 12 minutes around the lighthouse. I have approximately 200 photos and videos of Pasta during those 12 minutes and I cannot edit them down.
If you’re booking this trip, this is the routine. Build the rest of the day around the beach walks and you won’t regret a single thing.
What we did with Pasta on the island
Martha’s Vineyard is one of the most dog-friendly destinations we’ve taken Pasta to in the Northeast. We almost couldn’t go a day without bumping into another dog. Pasta got more socialization in this week than he gets in a month at home.
Specific things to do (all dog-friendly):
Chappaquiddick Island
There’s a tiny ferry — called the Chappy Ferry — that crosses from Edgartown to Chappaquiddick. It’s a 90-second ride. Dogs are welcome. The whole thing feels like a secret. Once you’re on Chappy, the trails are quiet, the beaches are emptier, and Pasta could run and swim.
Chilmark for lobster rolls and oysters
The drive from Edgartown to Chilmark is one of the prettier drives we’ve done in the Northeast — back roads, stone walls, fields. Chilmark is up-island and slower-paced. We bought lunch from Menemsha Fish Market — lobster rolls, fresh oysters, clams, chowder — and ate at the picnic tables outside with Pasta at our feet.
If you only do one off-Edgartown meal: this is it.
Biking the trails
Martha’s Vineyard has a real bike trail network — paved, mostly flat, and shaded in stretches. We brought our own bikes packed in the car (worth doing if you have the space — saves rental hassle and you know your fit).
A note for big-dog parents: Pasta runs alongside on a hand-held leash, and we kept the rides short (under 5 miles) and slow. Watch the temperature — golden retrievers overheat fast, and even mild sun on asphalt is too much for paws after a long stretch. Morning rides only, never midday.
If your dog can’t run that distance, look for the small attachable bike trailers that work for medium-sized dogs.
General wandering
Edgartown itself is dog-friendly to a degree we don’t see often. Patios. Sidewalks. Shops with water bowls outside. We didn’t have a single “is your dog allowed in here?” moment all week.
Where to eat with a big dog on Martha’s Vineyard
This section is shorter than I’d like because we made a lot of meals at Faraway with the kitchen — and that was the right call. Self-catering for breakfast and one other meal saves you from the patio lottery.
For the meals we ate out:
The Newes from America (Edgartown)
Right next door to Faraway. A local-favorite tavern with outdoor seating that welcomed Pasta without question. Classic comfort menu — the giant soft pretzel is exactly what you want after a long beach walk. The wait can be long, especially around dinner — reservations are highly recommended. This was our easy walk-home dinner spot more than once.
What I’d flag for any big-dog parent considering MV
- Spring is the move. Feb–April is the sweet spot. Crowds are minimal, the weather is comfortable for a thick-coated dog, and the ferry can be booked weeks in advance.
- Take the Falmouth-Edgartown ferry. The Falmouth–Edgartown crossing drops you 10 minutes from downtown.
- Bring more water than you think. Your dog will be on the beach a lot, and salt + sand = a lot of drinking.
- Paws after the beach. Rinse Pasta’s paws before going back into the room — the sand stays in the fur for hours.
- Get a hotel room with a door directly outside if you can. Faraway’s stairs were fine for Pasta, but for late-night bathroom breaks, ground-floor access is a quality-of-life upgrade. (See the steep-stairs note above.)
- Reserve The Newes. Don’t show up at 7 PM hoping for a table. You’ll be waiting an hour with a hungry dog.
Would we go back?
Yes. Without thinking about it.
Faraway gets a Pasta-Approved seal — full recommendation for big-dog parents — with the small caveat about the stairs for senior dogs or dogs with hip issues.
Martha’s Vineyard in spring is the kind of trip that doesn’t make sense until you do it once. The light at sunrise. The empty beaches. Pasta off-leash, running ahead and looking back to make sure we’re still there. The lighthouse. The quiet.
If you have a big dog and you’ve been thinking about MV but assumed it was a summer-only thing, take it from us: spring is when the island is yours.
Want a custom trip plan for your own dog-friendly getaway?
I’m Zoey. Pasta is my 4-year-old male golden retriever, ~65 lbs. I do custom trip planning for owners of big dogs who want to travel without the research nightmare — verified hotels, dog-friendly restaurants, vet contacts, the works.
— Zoey & Pasta
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