Category: Where to Stay

  • Boston With a Big Dog: Our Pasta-Approved Weekend at the Kimpton Marlowe

    Boston With a Big Dog: Our Pasta-Approved Weekend at the Kimpton Marlowe

    Most “dog-friendly Boston” guides are written by people traveling with a dog that fits under an airplane seat. Pasta is 65 pounds. That number matters more than you’d think — it’s the line where a lot of Boston hotels quietly stop saying yes.

    We spent a July weekend in Boston and Cambridge. Here’s what a big dog can actually do here.

    in this guide

    Does Boston actually work for a big dog?

    Yes — better than we expected, with one structural catch.

    Boston is walkable in a way that suits a large dog. Distances that would be a cab ride in most American cities are a twenty-minute walk here, and a golden retriever would rather walk. We covered most of our weekend on foot and Pasta was happier for it.

    The catch is the T. Dogs that don’t fit in a carrier are barred from the subway on weekdays from 7–9 AM and 4–7 PM, and MBTA staff can turn any animal away at their discretion based on crowding or behavior. We didn’t test this ourselves — we drove in and used Uber Pet — so treat it as a researched fact, not a field-tested one. If your plan depends on the T with a big dog, plan around that peak-hour window.

    Which Boston hotels rule out a 65-pound dog?

    This is the part nobody writes about, so here it is plainly. A 65-pound dog sits right on the failure line for several well-reviewed Boston pet-friendly hotels.

    HotelWeight limitWould Pasta fit?
    Hyatt Place Boston Seaport District50 lbs (1 dog)No
    Element by Marriott Boston Seaport60 lbsNo — by 5 lbs
    Studio Allston Hotel70 lbsYes
    Hilton Garden Inn Boston Logan75 lbsYes
    The Colonnade Back Bay75 lbsYes
    Kimpton MarloweNo weight limitYes
    Element’s 60-lb cap confirmed on Marriott’s own site. Weight caps change — call the property before you book.

    If your dog is between 60 and 75 pounds, you are in the zone where “pet friendly” on a booking site does not mean yes. Call. Ask for the number.

    Where we stayed: the Kimpton Marlowe

    We stayed at the Kimpton Marlowe in Cambridge. No weight limit, no breed restriction, no pet fee, no designated pet floor, no paperwork.

    What actually stood out wasn’t the policy — it was that nobody treated Pasta as an exception. We saw several dogs during the stay. The registration desk keeps a chalkboard with the names of every dog staying that night, and Pasta’s name was up there in pink chalk next to Layla, Willow, Hulk, Doombot, and a dog named Saul Goodboy. There are free cookies and waste bags at the desk.

    Golden retriever standing beside a chalkboard at the Kimpton Marlowe front desk listing guest dogs’ names including Pasta
    The Kimpton Marlowe front desk chalkboard. Pasta made the list, right next to Saul Goodboy.

    That’s a small thing that tells you a large thing: a hotel that writes your dog’s name on a board is a hotel where the front desk isn’t dreading your arrival.

    Valet parking meant we could drop the car once and not think about it — which matters more with a big dog, because street-parking a car you need to load 65 pounds of retriever into is its own small ordeal.

    🐾 Pasta-Approved Verdict: 9/10

    No weight limit, no fee, genuinely warm staff, and a neighborhood built for walking. The honest caveat: it’s in Cambridge, not Boston. Everything on the Boston side of the river is a bridge crossing away, so if your itinerary is Freedom Trail–heavy you’ll be commuting. For us that was fine — the Cambridge side was the better place to have a dog anyway.

    How do you get around with a dog too big for a carrier?

    We drove in. One shot, no traffic drama, and then handed the car to valet and didn’t touch it again.

    Uber Pet did the rest. It’s available across the Boston metro for a small surcharge, with no restriction on the size or breed of the animal — which is the whole point for a dog Pasta’s size. Every driver we got was genuinely fine with him.

    The one thing worth knowing: you can’t pick your vehicle class. We got a sedan once, and a back seat holding two adults and a 65-pound retriever is a cozy arrangement. Pasta did not care in the slightest. If you’d rather not gamble, request off-peak when larger vehicles are likelier — or just walk it.

    65-pound golden retriever riding in the back seat of an Uber Pet in downtown Boston
    Uber Pet has no size restriction — the whole point for a dog Pasta’s size.

    We walked most of the time, and that was the right call. Cambridge and the waterfront are both flat and dog-scaled.

    Can you take a big dog on a Boston harbor cruise?

    Yes — and it was the best thing we did all weekend.

    We walked down to the wharf and got on the Historic Sightseeing Cruise run by Boston Harbor City Cruises, which leaves from 1 Long Wharf, right by Faneuil Hall. It’s a narrated 90-minute loop of the harbor and the islands, and leashed dogs are welcome.

    Pasta spent the first half on the top deck getting sun, breeze, and an unreasonable amount of attention from strangers, then went downstairs and passed out flat in the shade on the second deck once the smells wore him out. The two decks are the reason this works for a big dog — he needed somewhere to lie down out of the sun after the novelty burned off, and there was room to do it without being underfoot.

    Three things to know before you book:

    • Dogs must be leashed the whole time.
    • Dogs are not allowed on Codzilla or on the Boston Harbor Islands, even though the same company runs them.
    • Boarding opens 30 minutes before departure and they do not wait for you. With a big dog, take the full 30 — you want to be on early enough to pick your spot on the top deck.

    One trap worth flagging: the Charles Riverboat Company departs from CambridgeSide, right next to the Marlowe, and looks like the obvious choice if you’re staying in East Cambridge. It does not allow pets — service animals only. Don’t walk over there assuming. Go to Long Wharf.

    If you want an all-dogs-aboard version instead, Mass Bay Lines runs “Dog Days of Summer” cruises on alternating weekends May through September, one dog per paying adult.

    Where does a big dog go when it’s too hot to walk?

    Into the mall. Genuinely.

    The Marlowe sits next to CambridgeSide, and during the worst of the afternoon heat we walked Pasta through it in air conditioning. You can order food and either find a cool seat in the food hall or take it out to the outdoor seating.

    A big dog overheats faster than a small one and can’t be carried through the bad stretch, so having an indoor, air-conditioned, walkable loop within a block of the hotel is a real logistical advantage on a July trip. Worth noting: CambridgeSide doesn’t publish a leashed-dog policy we could find, and individual stores set their own rules. We had no issue — but confirm at the entrance rather than assuming.

    Are there fenced parks nearby?

    East Cambridge is unusually well supplied. Walking the residential streets around the hotel we kept running into fenced green space — this neighborhood was clearly designed with dogs in the plan, not as an afterthought.

    The two nearest official off-leash areas:

    • Toomey Park — sizable fenced dog area with two separate entrances
    • Binney Street Park — dedicated off-leash space near Binney St, Fulkerson St, and Galileo Galilei Way
    Two large dogs greeting each other in a fenced off-leash dog park in East Cambridge
    One of the fenced dog parks in East Cambridge — room enough for a big dog to actually run.

    For a 65-pound dog, the relevant question isn’t whether a dog park exists — it’s whether it has room to actually run. Both of these do.

    Is PorchFest good with a dog?

    Very. We caught Cambridge PorchFest — bands playing on people’s porches and patios across the neighborhood, free, walkable, entirely outdoors.

    It’s an ideal big-dog event for a specific reason: nothing is ticketed, nothing is indoors, and nothing is a bottleneck. If a crowd gets thick or a band gets loud, you walk two blocks to the next porch. You are never stuck. Pasta had a great time, and so did everyone who met him.

    If you’re planning around it: Cambridge PorchFest runs in July. Somerville’s is a separate event in May.

    What we’d do differently

    Honestly, not much. No accidents, no refusals, no scrambling. The trip worked.

    The one thing we’d change is booking the harbor cruise earlier in the day. Pasta was thrilled for the first thirty minutes and asleep for the rest — a big dog burns through a new environment fast, and we’d rather have spent his good hours on the water and his tired hours in the hotel room.

    And if we did it again with a dog even slightly heavier, we’d still book the Marlowe. The absence of a weight limit isn’t a perk. For a big dog, it’s the whole decision.

    Golden retriever asleep on a hotel bed with the Boston skyline lit up behind him
    Post-harbor-cruise. A big dog burns through a new city fast.

    Traveling with a big dog? Our dog-friendly travel packing list is built for dogs that don’t fit in a carrier.

    — Zoey & Pasta

  • Martha’s Vineyard With a Big Dog: Our Pasta-Approved Week at Faraway

    Martha’s Vineyard With a Big Dog: Our Pasta-Approved Week at Faraway

    in this guide

    Why we went

    We went to Martha’s Vineyard because everyone goes to Martha’s Vineyard in July. We wanted to see it before it became the version of itself that ends up in everyone’s Instagram.

    Spring on the island is quiet. Some restaurants that take reservations can take walk-ins. The trails are empty. The light, especially in the early morning and at sunset, does something specific that the summer light doesn’t do — softer, slower, more honest.

    It’s also when Martha’s Vineyard quietly becomes one of the most dog-friendly places we’ve taken Pasta in the Northeast.

    This is a guide for big-dog parents (Pasta is a 4-year-old male golden retriever, ~65 lbs) who are thinking about a trip to MV before the crowds. It’s also a love letter to Faraway, the hotel we stayed at, which got nearly everything right.

    How we got there: NY → Cape Cod → Ferry

    Martha’s Vineyard is a ferry-first island. Here’s the route that worked best for us with a big dog:

    • Drive from New York to Falmouth, MA — about 5 hours straight, but plan on closer to 6 with a rest stop and a real lunch break. Pasta does better with one longer stop than two short ones.
    • Falmouth-Edgartown Ferry. This is the move. It’s a 72-foot fast ferry that runs from Falmouth on Cape Cod directly into Edgartown Harbor — about 75 minutes across Vineyard Sound. Dogs are welcome on the open deck.
    • Once you roll off the ferry, it’s a 10-minute drive to downtown.

    Total door-to-door from NYC: about 7 hours including breaks. Honest take — it’s a real travel day, but the moment you roll off the ferry into Edgartown, the time spent feels right.

    Pro tip: A worn-out dog from a big morning walk is a calm dog on the ferry. We did 30 minutes of running before we got in the car. Pasta slept most of the drive and was completely chill on the crossing.

    On the Falmouth–Edgartown ferry.

    Where we stayed: Faraway Martha’s Vineyard

    🐾 Pasta-Approved Verdict: 9/10

    If you’re traveling with a big dog and you only take one recommendation from this entire guide, take this one: stay at Faraway.

    We stayed on the second floor in a room with a small kitchen, which mattered more than I expected. Being able to make Pasta’s food in the room — and our own simple breakfasts — saved us from negotiating restaurant patios at 7 AM and gave the trip a slower, more grounded rhythm.

    The room itself was cozy in the way that boutique hotels try to be and often fail at: warm wood, thoughtful lighting, no overdesigned hotel-art-by-the-yard. Pasta found the couch on day one and that became his spot for the week.

    What Faraway got right for big-dog parents

    • No weight policy hassle. None. Walked in, signed in, no extra paperwork, no “well, technically…”
    • Staff loves dogs. Not “tolerates” — loves. Pasta got greetings every time we walked through the lobby.
    • Water bowls outside the property. Filled. Always.
    • Daily housekeeping. Worth its weight when you’re traveling with a dog who tracks in beach sand.
    • Dogs welcome property-wide except the pool. Which is the only reasonable exception. The pool deck has a clear pet-free zone, and the rest of the property is fully accessible.

    The one thing to flag

    The stairs to the second floor are a little steep. We didn’t have any issues with Pasta — golden retrievers in their prime can handle them fine — but if your dog has hip dysplasia, arthritis, or is a senior, ask for a first-floor room or look for an elevator option. I’d rather you know now than book and regret.

    That’s the entire critical note. Everything else about the stay was thoughtful.

    For current room rates, check Faraway’s website directly — pricing varies a lot by season and room type.

    Edgartown is the kind of town that makes you walk slower. So we did.

    The highlight: beach access + Edgartown Harbor Lighthouse

    The reason Faraway is 9/10 is the location. Five minutes on foot from the hotel and you’re on the beach. Ten minutes and you’re at the Edgartown Harbor Lighthouse.

    We did this twice a day, every day:

    • Sunrise walks before breakfast. Pasta off-leash on a quiet stretch of sand, the lighthouse catching the first light.
    • Sunset walks before dinner. The light goes molten gold for about 12 minutes around the lighthouse. I have approximately 200 photos and videos of Pasta during those 12 minutes and I cannot edit them down.

    If you’re booking this trip, this is the routine. Build the rest of the day around the beach walks and you won’t regret a single thing.

    The 12 minutes of golden light. This is the trip in one photo.

    What we did with Pasta on the island

    Martha’s Vineyard is one of the most dog-friendly destinations we’ve taken Pasta to in the Northeast. We almost couldn’t go a day without bumping into another dog. Pasta got more socialization in this week than he gets in a month at home.

    Specific things to do (all dog-friendly):

    Chappaquiddick Island

    There’s a tiny ferry — called the Chappy Ferry — that crosses from Edgartown to Chappaquiddick. It’s a 90-second ride. Dogs are welcome. The whole thing feels like a secret. Once you’re on Chappy, the trails are quiet, the beaches are emptier, and Pasta could run and swim.

    Chappaquiddick — quieter trails, emptier beaches.

    Chilmark for lobster rolls and oysters

    The drive from Edgartown to Chilmark is one of the prettier drives we’ve done in the Northeast — back roads, stone walls, fields. Chilmark is up-island and slower-paced. We bought lunch from Menemsha Fish Market — lobster rolls, fresh oysters, clams, chowder — and ate at the picnic tables outside with Pasta at our feet.

    If you only do one off-Edgartown meal: this is it.

    Biking the trails

    Martha’s Vineyard has a real bike trail network — paved, mostly flat, and shaded in stretches. We brought our own bikes packed in the car (worth doing if you have the space — saves rental hassle and you know your fit).

    A note for big-dog parents: Pasta runs alongside on a hand-held leash, and we kept the rides short (under 5 miles) and slow. Watch the temperature — golden retrievers overheat fast, and even mild sun on asphalt is too much for paws after a long stretch. Morning rides only, never midday.

    If your dog can’t run that distance, look for the small attachable bike trailers that work for medium-sized dogs.

    General wandering

    Edgartown itself is dog-friendly to a degree we don’t see often. Patios. Sidewalks. Shops with water bowls outside. We didn’t have a single “is your dog allowed in here?” moment all week.

    Where to eat with a big dog on Martha’s Vineyard

    This section is shorter than I’d like because we made a lot of meals at Faraway with the kitchen — and that was the right call. Self-catering for breakfast and one other meal saves you from the patio lottery.

    For the meals we ate out:

    The Newes from America (Edgartown)

    Right next door to Faraway. A local-favorite tavern with outdoor seating that welcomed Pasta without question. Classic comfort menu — the giant soft pretzel is exactly what you want after a long beach walk. The wait can be long, especially around dinner — reservations are highly recommended. This was our easy walk-home dinner spot more than once.

    What I’d flag for any big-dog parent considering MV

    1. Spring is the move. Feb–April is the sweet spot. Crowds are minimal, the weather is comfortable for a thick-coated dog, and the ferry can be booked weeks in advance.
    2. Take the Falmouth-Edgartown ferry. The Falmouth–Edgartown crossing drops you 10 minutes from downtown.
    3. Bring more water than you think. Your dog will be on the beach a lot, and salt + sand = a lot of drinking.
    4. Paws after the beach. Rinse Pasta’s paws before going back into the room — the sand stays in the fur for hours.
    5. Get a hotel room with a door directly outside if you can. Faraway’s stairs were fine for Pasta, but for late-night bathroom breaks, ground-floor access is a quality-of-life upgrade. (See the steep-stairs note above.)
    6. Reserve The Newes. Don’t show up at 7 PM hoping for a table. You’ll be waiting an hour with a hungry dog.

    Would we go back?

    Yes. Without thinking about it.

    Faraway gets a Pasta-Approved seal — full recommendation for big-dog parents — with the small caveat about the stairs for senior dogs or dogs with hip issues.

    Martha’s Vineyard in spring is the kind of trip that doesn’t make sense until you do it once. The light at sunrise. The empty beaches. Pasta off-leash, running ahead and looking back to make sure we’re still there. The lighthouse. The quiet.

    If you have a big dog and you’ve been thinking about MV but assumed it was a summer-only thing, take it from us: spring is when the island is yours.


    Want a custom trip plan for your own dog-friendly getaway?

    I’m Zoey. Pasta is my 4-year-old male golden retriever, ~65 lbs. I do custom trip planning for owners of big dogs who want to travel without the research nightmare — verified hotels, dog-friendly restaurants, vet contacts, the works.

    — Zoey & Pasta